The Detachable Shirt Collar

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What is a detachable collar?[edit]

A detachable shirt collar is a collar that is separate from the shirt, but fastened to it by studs. The collar itself is usually made out of a different fabric from the shirt, typically a starched cardboard-like consistency. Normally, they are white in color. The detachable collar saved significant time and money on laundry making it popular.

History[edit]

The history of this unique invention starts right in Troy, New York in 1827 by a woman named Hannah Montague. It is documented that she used to cut the collars off of her husband's shirts to ease the load of washing them. She would then sew them back on after each wash. Not long after hearing of this, The Reverand Ebenezer Brown, a local businessman from Troy, was delighted with her innovative idea and decided to take the idea to the market. Rather than sewing the collars back into place, a new technique was found where the collar was simply attached to the shirt by a pair of studs. This new and easy solution to attach and detach the collar would mean the Gentleman's collars would always look white, fresh, clean and cardboard-like.

Gaining Popularity[edit]

It would soon become fashionable for men to "look the part" with really stiff collars that would look smart and withstand daily wear. The detachable collar also meant that a larger amount of the population could afford to own a white collard shirt[5]. Because of this, rigidity became very important, and starching became popular. Soon other areas of the shirts became detachable and starched as well, such as the front and cuffs. With The Reverend Ebenezer Brown as the businessman and the manufacturer of these detachable shirt elements, Hannah Montague's idea soon became a significantly well-known industry for the town of Troy.

Using the Collar[edit]

The collar is attached to the shirt by a pair of studs. The shirt has a tunic collar, a short upright band of fabric with a hole at the back and one on each side at the front. The stiff collar is attached at the back before the shirt is donned (and the tie placed under the collar for a turndown collar), then the shirt is put on, after which the front stud is pushed through the collar to fasten it. To starch a collar, it must be rinsed in boiling water to remove any starch, then laundered as normal. After soaking in a concentrated warm starch solution, it is left until nearly dry, then ironed until hard. While ironing, the shape is added by curling, or using a collar press.

Decline of the Collar[edit]

As more emphasis started to be placed on comfort in clothing, this practice eventually declined. By the 1930s there were only a few companies still producing detachable collar for daily use. Fashion trends of the younger generation at that time are credited to the growth of the soft cotton collar and the decline of starched stiff collars[5]. The stiff collar is the last surviving use of such heavily starched cotton in daywear. A modern detachable collared dress shirt still has a stiff, but attached, front and cuffs to accompany.

The Collar Today[edit]

Though a decline, the shirt collar is still significantly important when it comes to formal wear. Worn often by Military and at formal events along with a white or black bow tie. Today, barristers throughout the United Kingdom often wear detachable collars for convenience. They opt to wear a winged collar when in court along with their white bands. Yet easily swapping it for a turn down collar and tie on their way to and from the courthouse. [2] Detachable collars are also part of the uniform and are worn by students at Eton College. Most popular are the turndown collars, however students in positions of authority wear stick-up collars or a wing collar. [4]

References[edit]

[1] https://www.u-s-history.com/pages/h2231.html#:~:text=The%20first%20detachable%20shirt%20collar%20was%20%22invented%22%20by,them%20and%20Troy%20became%20known%20as%20%22Collar%20City.%22

[2] https://www.mycollarsandcuffs.com/2016/09/20/history-of-the-detachable-collar/

[3] https://web.archive.org/web/20100625122022/http://suityourself.com/History_Of_Dress_Shirts.asp

[4] https://web.archive.org/web/20081011175000/http://www.archivist.f2s.com/bsu/Miscellany/eton/eton-notes.htm

[5] https://trc-leiden.nl/trc/index.php/en/blog/1444-how-the-detachable-collar-came-and-went#:~:text=By%20the%201930s%20there%20were,was%20seen%20less%20and%20less.